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Your Polar Blue Parrot looks sweet, but pair it with the wrong fish and that “peaceful community” turns into a chase scene (or a snack).
The best polar blue parrot cichlid tankmates are usually fish with a temperament that can withstand interactions with the cichlid. On top of that, tank mates need to be big enough in length to avoid winding up as the cichlid’s next meal, but also capable of living healthily in the same habitat.
Table of Contents
One bad pick and your “peaceful community” turns into live food.
Want a calm, colorful tank, minus the drama? Start here. Below you’ll find the 15 most compatible tank mates for Polar Blues so you can build a lively, low-drama community that actually lasts.
Polar Blue Parrot Cichlid Tank Mates – What You Need to Know
Everything you need to consider about your polar blue parrot cichlid can help you narrow down which tank mates will work best.

Species Snapshot: Polar Blue Parrot Cichlid
- Lineage: Domesticated hybrid (convict × blood parrot lineage); no wild locality.
- Adult size: 4–6 in (10–15 cm) (rarely larger, strain-dependent).
- Temperament: Semi‑aggressive, generally less pushy than many cichlids; can defend territory.
- Preferred range: 75–82 °F (24–28 °C); pH ~6.5–8.0; moderate hardness.
- Tank: 30 gal (~114 L) minimum for a pair, heavy on caves/line‑of‑sight breaks; bigger if stocking a community.
- Stocking rule of thumb: Avoid fish <3 inches unless very fast and kept in larger groups.
Temperament
The temper of a polar blue parrot cichlid is slightly different from most other cichlids. What we mean is: they aren’t bullies! Generally, these beautiful fish are peaceful and won’t go out of their way to cause trouble. That said, if there isn’t enough room or if another fish is bothering them, they aren’t afraid to get aggressive.
What you’re looking for are tank mates who are of the same mentality, neither being easily bullied nor looking for a fight themselves.
Why this matters: Choose tank mates that are confident but not hyper‑aggressive, and provide cover so each species can claim a zone.
Size
A polar blue parrot cichlid is around 4–6 inches long; exceptionally large individuals have been reported, but are uncommon. Though they don’t go hunting for trouble, you’ll want fish that are no smaller than 3 inches or very fast to avoid being swallowed by the polar blue parrot cichlid.
Competition
A polar blue parrot cichlid eats all manner of food, like veggies, brine shrimp, pellets, and much more. Avoid routine feeder fish (disease/thiaminase risk). Use quality cichlid pellets as a staple, plus frozen/live inverts (brine/mysis/bloodworms), and blanched vegetables.
They need to face little competition for their nutrients; get fish that don’t eat at the exact same time, or prefer their food on the bottom of the tank.
Parameters & Minimum Tank Sizes
These cichlids need a tank of at least 30 gallons (~114 L) in order to keep their cool. They prefer a temperature range of 75–82 °F (24–28 °C). This is important because whichever tank mates you choose must be comfortable within the same temperature range.
Footprint > gallons: Prioritize a long tank with hardscape (wood, rock) to break sight lines. Provide hiding caves for bottom dwellers.
6 Stocking Rules & Red Flags
Think of these as your guardrails, scan them first to dodge size, temperament, and group-size traps before you pick any fish.
- Match parameters: Temp 75–82 °F; neutral to slightly alkaline pH.
- Size safety: Avoid adding nano fish <3″ with medium/large cichlids unless in robust groups with cover.
- Schooling species require groups: If a fish is a shoaler, buy the whole group (see each card).
- Footprint & flow: Active swimmers need long tanks; bottom dwellers need hides.
- Plants: Herbivores like silver dollars will eat most plants—use hardscape or artificial plants.
- Feeding: Do not use feeder fish; diversify prepared + frozen foods.
Tank‑Size Pathways (choose your lane)
Pick your lane by gallons and footprint, then choose from the combos that are proven to work in that exact setup.
- 40–55 gal: Bristlenose pleco, rainbow krib (with cave & watch breeding), rosy barb (group, monitor nips), tiger barb (group, monitor nips), zebra danio (group; upper 70s °F).
- 75 gal: Golden severum (peace‑leaning cichlid), firemouth cichlid, silver dollars (group; footprint!), clown loach (juveniles only unless larger tank), larger barb groups.
- 125 gal+ (6 ft): Oscar (single), larger silver dollar schools, multiple medium cichlids with careful aquascape.
- 300 gal+ / monster: Giraffe catfish (and other true giants).
15 of the Best Polar Blue Parrot Cichlid Tank Mates
We can now move into discussing our list of the best picks for your cichlid’s company.
It should be noted, though, that of the 15 listed, not all will necessarily be compatible with each other. For example, Oscars will do well with the polar parrots; however, adding Zebra Danios will just end up being a tasty snack for the Oscars.
Below, you’ll find the information on why each of our picks made this list.
4 Centerpiece Cichlids: The Stars of the Show
These are the personalities that set the vibe. Pick one centerpiece for a 75–125+ gal tank (two only with serious footprint and scaping) and give it clear territories with wood/rock. Aim for similarly confident neighbors, and avoid tiny or slow fish that could be pushed around.
1. Golden Severum
A calm-leaning cichlid that holds its own without picking constant fights—great in roomy, well-scaped tanks.
- Scientific Name: Heros efasciatus (gold morph)
- Adult Size: 7–8 in
- Compatible With: Polar Blue Parrot Cichlid
- Care Level: Intermediate
- Origin: Amazon Basin (trade “gold” is a color morph)
- Why it works: Generally peace‑leaning cichlid that holds its own without being hyper‑aggressive.

The golden severum is quite a looker in any fish tank. It is shaped traditionally, with such a sunny, pale coloration that you would be surprised to find it has an aggressive temperament.
That being said, although the golden severum is likely to test the patience of any other fish smaller than itself, it will probably stop bothering your polar blue parrot cichlid once it realizes that the arctic-colored fish can’t be pushed around easily!
- Pros: Matching temperaments.
- Cons: Occasional territoriality.
- Min Tank/Footprint: 75 gal, 4–6 ft length preferred.
- Group Size: Single or pair (watch pair aggression).
- Risk Notes: Can bully much smaller or very shy tankmates.
2. Firemouth Cichlid
Display-heavy and semi-aggressive; pairs well with assertive tank mates in organized territories.
- Scientific Name: Thorichthys meeki
- Adult Size: 6–7 in
- Care Level: Beginner
- Origin: Native: Yucatán (MX) → Belize/Guatemala. Introduced: Singapore, Israel, Australia, etc.
- Why it works: Similar semi‑aggressive temperament; visual display without relentless combat.

This species of cichlid has almost the exact same tendency toward semi-aggression as the polar blue parrot cichlid; in the cases where tanks are big enough and there are enough obstacles to keep the fish apart, they usually cancel each other’s tendency toward fighting out.
Firemouth cichlids are similar to river salmon in some color aspects. They are mostly muddy silver with pink-orange bellies and lips. They have faint electric blue markings on their fins and tail, too.
- Pros: Temperament match.
- Cons: Territorial during breeding.
- Min Tank: 55–75 gal.
- Group Size: Single/pair.
- Risk Notes: Provide caves and clear territories.
3. Blood Parrot Fish
A hybrid with similar manners to your Polar Blue—fun match in a clean, well-filtered tank.
- Scientific Name: Hybrid; no formal scientific name (often cited as Amphilophus citrinellus × Vieja melanurus)
- Adult Size: 7–8 in
- Care Level: Intermediate
- Origin: Human‑made hybrid
- Why it works: Similar temperament; understands cichlid “rules.”

Blood Parrot fish are also called bloody parrot cichlids; they are a hybrid of two other cichlid species, namely the red devil and the midas cichlids. They are funny to look at, with pursed lips and bulging eyes, while their fins are beautifully segmented. Their overall color is usually red to orange.
This fish can be compatible, mainly with other cichlids, like the blue parrot, as long as there are enough hiding places and their tank mates don’t come looking for trouble. They also need good filtration, which can be tricky to master.
- Pros: Temperament match; compatible diet.
- Cons: Some food competition; needs excellent filtration.
- Min Tank: 55–75 gal.
- Group Size: Single/pair.
- Risk Notes: Can be pushy toward much smaller fish.
4. Oscar (Large)
Big-brained bruisers that tolerate sturdy neighbors in spacious systems with heavy filtration.
- Scientific Name: Astronotus ocellatus
- Adult Size: 12–14 in
- Care Level: Difficult
- Origin: South America
- Why it works: Size and confidence match; will usually ignore similarly robust cichlids.

The Oscar fish might be very large, as well as carnivorous and prone to starting fights, but its beauty can make you forget these factors. Oscar fish are large, but mottled with brown and gold, which is accented by neon-orange spots and long, soft-looking fins.
Though they can be pushy, Oscar Fish work well with blue parrot cichlids because their temperaments are evenly matched; the Oscar fish will learn quickly that blue parrot cichlids won’t tolerate being bullied, and with enough space, each fish will keep to itself.
- Pros: Little diet overlap (large carnivore).
- Cons: Predatory; heavy bioload; rearranges decor.
- Min Tank: 75 gal (single); larger for communities.
- Group Size: Single (pairs need very large tanks).
- Risk Notes: Will eat small to medium fish; requires excellent filtration.
5 Dither & Schooling Fish: Motion, Color, Confidence
Fast, social swimmers keep attention moving and help territorial cichlids chill out. Always buy the full group (see species card for counts), provide open swim lanes, and match temperature and adult size. If a species is known to nip, size up the group and avoid long-finned tank mates.
1. Silver Dollar Fish
Peaceful, fast schoolers that ignore cichlids—but will mow down soft plants.
- Scientific Name: Metynnis argenteus (and related species)
- Adult Size: 6 in (some species larger)
- Care Level: Intermediate
- Origin: Brazil / Amazonia
- Why it works: Peaceful, fast, midwater shoaler that ignores cichlids.

These fish are some of the largest you can get for aquariums, but also some of the gentlest in temperament. They enjoy being around other fish, but won’t go out of their way to mess with shy tank mates.
Silver Dollar fish are so called because of their shining silver bodies, which are disc-shaped. They enjoy being in schools and eat veggies, so even food competition will be kept to a minimum!
- Pros: Minimal food competition (herbivore).
- Cons: Eats plants; needs group & space.
- Min Tank: 125 gal long for a group.
- Group Size: 5–6+.
- Risk Notes: May spook; plant‑safe setups required.
2. Tiger Barb
Zippy, colorful nippers that behave when kept in a bigger group (and given lots of swim space).
- Scientific Name: Puntigrus tetrazona
- Adult Size: 2.5–3 in
- Care Level: Beginner–Intermediate
- Origin: Sumatra/Borneo
- Why it works: A fast, active school can distract and diffuse aggression.

Tiger Barbs are among the best tank mates any aquarium enthusiast can get. Although they are smaller than the polar blue parrot cichlid, they are just big and fast enough to avoid being eaten.
Tiger barbs are playful with groups of one another. They are peach-colored with black stripes.
- Pros: Hardy, colorful dither.
- Cons: Fin‑nipper; requires a group; avoid long‑finned/slow tankmates.
- Min Tank: 40–55 gal.
- Group Size: 6–10+.
- Risk Notes: Nipping increases if under‑stocked (group-wise) or cramped.
3. Bala Shark
Gentle, hyperactive shoalers who are best suited to long, large tanks rather than compact setups.
- Scientific Name: Balantiocheilos melanopterus
- Adult Size: 12–14 in
- Care Level: Intermediate–Advanced
- Origin: Southeast Asia
- Why it works: Peaceful, fast midwater shoaler in very large tanks.

Bala Sharks are named mainly for their shape, which is horizontally aligned with forked tails, much like a Great White Shark might be. However, these fish have also been called minnows.
They’re typically silver in color, and the easiest part of caring for them is their diverse diet. Bear in mind that much smaller fish can be eaten by the Bala shark when it reaches full size; luckily, polar blue parrot cichlids are just big enough to avoid this.
- Pros: Non‑aggressive; high activity.
- Cons: Huge tank needed; skittish; group species.
- Min Tank: 120–150 gal+ (6–8 ft length) for a group.
- Group Size: 4–6+.
- Risk Notes: May eat small fish when large; stress‑sensitive.
4. Zebra Danio
Speedy surface dithers that add motion and confidence when kept in a proper school.
- Scientific Name: Danio rerio
- Adult Size: 2 in
- Care Level: Beginner
- Origin: South Asia
- Why it works: Fast surface dither; robust and active.

This little slip of color is a fish that has been delighting community tanks for a long time. Zebra danios are very small, but because they are usually bought in groups of three or four, they work well using strength in numbers and speed to deter larger fish, such as the polar blue parrot cichlid, from preying on them.
These little fish are named for their stripes. These are usually navy blue and cover the zebra danio’s warmer, peachier coloring.
- Pros: Hardy; low bioload.
- Cons: Prefer the cooler end; small size = predation risk.
- Min Tank: 20–30 gal (only with medium cichlids and heavy cover).
- Group Size: 6+ (not 3–4).
- Risk Notes: Keep toward 76–78 °F if possible; provide flow.
5. Rosy Barb
Hardy, high-energy swimmers that shine in groups and may nip slow, long-finned fish.
Scientific Name: Pethia conchonius
Adult Size: 5–6 in
Care Level: Intermediate
Origin: India
Why it works: Active dither; hardy and fast.

This is a rock-star-looking fish, with a spiky dorsal fin that could remind someone of a mohawk hairstyle! The rosy barb is named after its rusty red or orange colors.
This barb is quite active with others, but peaceful ultimately. This means it won’t bother your semi-aggressive polar blue parrot cichlid.
- Pros: Colorful; midwater activity.
- Cons: Can nip; keep 5–6+; avoid long‑finned/slow fish.
- Min Tank: 40–55 gal.
- Group Size: 5–6+.
- Risk Notes: Add plants/hardscape to interrupt chase lines.
5 Bottom Crew Fish: Quiet Clean-Up & Contrast
When the substrate has clear owners, everyone relaxes. These bottom dwellers occupy caves and crevices, leaving your Polar Blues the mid-water stage.
Assign the substrate to peaceful specialists so your cichlids can own mid-water. Use fine sand/smooth gravel, add multiple caves/tubes, and feed sinking foods after the lights dim. Plan for adult size and, for social species, keep proper groups so they don’t hide and waste away.
1. Giraffe Catfish
A gentle, bottom-cruising giant that outgrows most homes and needs true “monster” space.
- Scientific Name: Auchenoglanis occidentalis
- Adult Size: 24–30+ in
- Care Level: Difficult
- Origin: Africa (Congo/Nile basins and others)
- Why it works: Peaceful, bottom‑oriented giant for specialist, monster tanks.

Giraffe catfish are named for their mottled brown bodies, which, if you look closely, resemble the spots of a giraffe. Otherwise, they’re very fun to look at, with forward-facing whiskers on the end of long, narrow faces, and rounded fins.
Giraffe catfish will stay on the bottom of the tank. Though they are gentle, the downside is that they can reach very large sizes and need to be accommodated in big tanks, not because they’ll start fights, but because your polar blue parrot cichlid will if it feels crowded!
- Pros: Hardy; detritus‑foraging behavior.
- Cons: Outgrows most home aquaria; may eat small fish.
- Min Tank: 300 gal+ with width.
- Group Size: Single.
- Risk Notes: Powerful digger; secure decor.
2. Bristlenose Pleco
A peaceful, hard-working grazer that minds its business on the glass and wood.
- Scientific Name: Ancistrus sp. (e.g., A. cirrhosus)
- Adult Size: 4–5 in
- Care Level: Intermediate
- Origin: Amazon Basin
- Why it works: Peaceful algae/grazer; stays on the bottom and out of trouble.

This fuzzy-faced fish is so delightful to look at! The pleco stays at the bottom of the tank and causes no trouble, making it ideal for your polar blue parrot cichlid.
On top of that, you’ll get to enjoy the bristlenose pleco’s other striking features, such as its blue eyes and gold-speckled body.
- Pros: Non‑aggressive; helps with biofilm/algae.
- Cons: Needs wood/fiber; can be territorial with other plecos.
- Min Tank: 30–40 gal.
- Group Size: Single (or m/f with space).
- Risk Notes: Protect soft‑leaf plants from rasping
3. Clown Loach
Social, entertaining bottom fish that need a group—and eventually, a very large footprint.
- Scientific Name: Chromobotia macracanthus
- Adult Size: 10–12 in (can exceed)
- Care Level: Intermediate–Difficult
- Origin: Indonesia
- Why it works: Peaceful bottom shoaler that ignores cichlids.

The clown loach is peaceful and fun to watch. It stays near the bottom of the tank, but it likes to school with a few others. It will pose no threat of hassle to the polar blue parrot cichlid.
Clown loaches bear some resemblance to classic clownfish with orange colors, but black stripes instead of white. They also have whiskers.
- Pros: Engaging, social.
- Cons: Large, group fish; ich‑prone; needs a big footprint.
- Min Tank: 125 gal for a proper group.
- Group Size: 5+.
- Risk Notes: Don’t mix with very aggressive cichlids in cramped tanks.
4. Kuhli Loach
Shy, eel-like bottom dwellers that clean up leftovers and thrive with soft substrate and hides.
- Scientific Name: Pangio kuhlii
- Adult Size: 3.5–4 in
- Care Level: Beginner
- Origin: Southeast Asia
- Why it works: Bottom‑dweller that stays out of the cichlid’s way.

This omnivorous fish is sometimes mistaken for an eel thanks to its long, banana-like shape. It will not only provide a visual difference for your tank, but also make a great companion for cichlids because of its even temper and preference for staying on the bottom of the tank.
Polar blue parrot cichlids will look visually compelling next to the warm colors of this loach. The kuhli loach is mottled with gold and brown, which is why it is sometimes called the leopard loach.
- Pros: Peaceful; minimal food competition.
- Cons: Needs soft substrate and hides.
- Min Tank: 30–40 gal.
- Group Size: 6+.
- Risk Notes: May be stressed by very boisterous, large cichlids.
5. Rainbow Krib
A colorful dwarf cichlid that’s easygoing—until breeding, when it fiercely guards its cave.
- Scientific Name: Pelvicachromis pulcher
- Adult Size: 3–4 in
- Care Level: Beginner
- Origin: West Africa
- Why it works: Generally peaceful dwarf cichlid with different zones (bottom/caves).

The rainbow krib, also called the king cichlid, is known for its royal coloration. It is one of the few cichlid species that are largely peaceful.
It will be a very gentle tank mate for your blue parrot cichlid. These fish are pretty, with pink bellies, dark heads striped with white, and fins accented with fire colors and offset by dark spots.
- Pros: Colorful; adaptable.
- Cons: Strong breeding aggression; needs caves.
- Min Tank: 30–40 gal.
- Group Size: Single or pair (with territory).
- Risk Notes: Guard fry aggressively; plan aquascape accordingly.
The Wildcard / Spicy Pick: Advanced Keepers Only
Gorgeous, assertive, and best in tanks with serious hardscape and line-of-sight breaks. Treat this as a centerpiece alternative, not an add-on—stock sturdy tank mates only, and be ready to re-home if temperament escalates during breeding or territory disputes.
1. Salvini Cichlid
A stunning, spicy personality that coexists best when each fish has a clear territory.
- Scientific Name: Trichromis salvini
- Adult Size: 8–9 in
- Care Level: Difficult
- Origin: Central America
- Why it works: Semi‑aggressive; will respect a similarly assertive cichlid with space.

If you have a salvini cichlid, Cichlasoma salvini, or a “yellowbelly cichlid,” as they are sometimes called, you will be in for a very engaging experience. Not only is this cichlid quite beautiful, with a whole host of rainbow colors striped with striking black marks, but its large size and semi-aggressive nature will keep you on your toes.
That being said, one fish you won’t have to worry about in company with the Salvini cichlid is the polar blue parrot cichlid. As long as there is enough space for both fish to have their own safe zone, they will likely test each other’s bravery once or twice and then coexist peacefully.
- Pros: Matching temperaments.
- Cons: Elevated aggression potential; needs hardscape to break sight.
- Min Tank: 75 gal.
- Group Size: Single (pairs become very territorial).
- Risk Notes: Predation on small fish.
The best polar blue parrot cichlid tank mates are species that match temperature and temperament, aren’t small enough to be preyed upon, and fit your tank’s footprint. Use group sizes for schooling fish, supply cover, and size the aquarium to the largest/most active species on your list.
Tank Mate Q&A: What Actually Works with Polar Blues
Here are some quick answers to your top questions, short, practical guidance you can act on right away. If you don’t see yours, drop us a line in the comments.

How long do Polar Parrot fish live?
Polar blue parrot fish boast a lifespan of approximately 5-10 years. Factors influencing their longevity include the aquarium’s water parameters, diet, genetic factors, and the overall quality of their environment.
For a longer, healthier life, ensure excellent water quality and a nutritious diet. This not only extends their lifespan but also promotes a serene and comfortable habitat.
What is the ideal aquarium size for Parrot Cichlids?
A 30-gal (~114 L) tank can house a pair of Polar Blues with a careful aquascape. For communities or larger tank mates (severum, firemouth), plan 55–75 gal+. For schooling large species (silver dollars, clown loaches) or oscars, think 125 gal+.
What size tank do I need before adding any tank mates?
At least 55–75 gal for mixed communities; 30 gal works for a pair of Polar Blues only
Which species must be kept in groups (and how many)?
For all shoaling species, group size is non-negotiable because it spreads aggression, reduces stress, and brings out natural behavior.
Aim for tiger or rosy barbs in groups of 6–10+ to curb fin-nipping; zebra danios in 6+ so they stay confident and active; silver dollars in 5–6+ to prevent skittishness and crashing into glass; clown loaches in 5+ since they’re highly social and languish when kept in ones or twos; and bala sharks in 4–6+ to reduce spooking and erratic dashing.
If you can’t provide these minimums (and the tank length they require), pick a different species—under-stocked groups are the fastest route to nipping, hiding, illness, and failed compatibility.
What aquascape reduces fights?
Think “broken sight lines, clear zones.” Build small wood/rock islands so fish cannot see end to end. This shortens chase distance and lets each species claim a home base. Add multiple caves (more hides than bottom fish). Use taller hardscape or hardy plants to divide midwater territories, and keep open swim lanes for schoolers. Aim for a long tank (length > height), moderate flow, and sand or smooth gravel. If tensions spike, rearrange decor to reset territories.
- Create wood/rock islands to break the line of sight
- Provide more caves/hides than bottom fish
- Use tall hardscape/plants to split territories
- Maintain open lanes for schoolers
- Favor long tanks, moderate flow, smooth substrate
- Re-scape if aggression flares
How do I stop fin-nipping?
Nipping is usually a school-size or mismatch problem. Keep known nippers (tiger/rosy barbs) in groups of 6–10 so they focus on each other rather than tank mates. Pair them only with similarly quick, short-finned fish; avoid slow, long-finned species. Add cover and visual breaks, increase flow for active swimmers, and feed small, frequent portions. Persistent offenders: increase the group size, re-scape to add lanes, or re-home.
- Keep nippy species in larger groups (6–10)
- Match with quick, short-finned tank mates
- Add cover and flow; feed small, frequent portions
- Increase group size or re-home chronic nippers
What is the feeding strategy in mixed tanks?
Use high-quality cichlid pellets as the staple, then rotate frozen or live invertebrates (brine shrimp, mysis, bloodworms) 2–4 times per week. For herbivores and omnivores, add blanched vegetables or spirulina. To prevent brawls, stage feed: offer floating or slow-sinking foods first for mid–top fish; 30–60 seconds later, target-feed sinking wafers or pellets into caves for loaches and plecos. Use feeding rings for schoolers and a turkey baster or tongs for precise delivery. Avoid feeder fish.
- Staple: quality cichlid pellets
- Rotate: frozen/live inverts 2–4 times weekly
- Add veg/spirulina for herbivores
- Stage feed: top first, then bottom-targeted
- Use rings/baster for precise delivery
- Avoid feeder fish (disease risk)

Keep Building: More Tank Mate Guides
If you’re eyeing a peaceful marine showpiece for a separate setup, our Royal Gramma tank mate guide walks through neighbors that keep this shy basslet confident and visible, from cave placement to flow and feeding cadence. On the freshwater side, territory management gets easier when you understand bottom-claiming species; that’s where the Albino Rainbow Shark guide helps you plan footprint, hides, and mid–top companions so lanes stay open and skirmishes stay rare.
Mixed-species ambitions sometimes include reptiles, and the rules change fast with turtles. Before you experiment, read our Red-Eared Slider compatibility overview for hard truths on opportunistic feeding, filtration loads, and which fish actually hold up around a basking platform. If you’re after motion and color in a community tank, the Rosy Barb companion piece explains how group size and tank length turn a notorious nipper into a lively, well-behaved school.
Share Your Polar Blue Parrot Tank-Mate Results
What worked (or didn’t) in your setup? Drop your tank size, species + counts, and any surprises in the comments to help other keepers build calmer communities.