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Many fish owners don’t realize that the water that looks clean could quietly kill everything in their tank. One common water source is a total fish disaster waiting to happen, and chances are, you’ve used it before.
So, let’s rank the nine types of aquarium water from safest to most dangerous so your fish stay alive, happy, and (literally) swimming.
Table of Contents
Natural Waterways – The Dangerous One
That peaceful-looking stream near your house? It’s basically a fish graveyard waiting to happen.
Even if the water looks crystal-clear, it can hide industrial runoff, pesticides, parasites, and bacteria your pampered tank fish can’t handle.
Sure, wild fish live in rivers, but they’ve evolved for generations to survive that chaos. Your home aquarium fish? They’d last about as long as an ice cube in a volcano.
Even “clean” mountain water can carry harmful metals like lead or mercury. No test strip can catch that. And once it’s in your tank, it’s game over for your fish.
Quick Takeaway: Natural water from rivers, lakes, or creeks might seem “authentic,” but it’s full of invisible threats you can’t test for at home. It’s the one source every experienced aquarist agrees you should never, ever use.
The 8 Other Aquarium Water Sources
You’d think water is just water, right? Not quite. Each type has its own quirks, hidden risks, and maintenance challenges, and knowing the difference can literally save your fish’s life.
Here’s how every common aquarium water source stacks up, from everyday tap water to the one that can quietly destroy your tank.
1. Tap Water
The Most Common (and Misunderstood) Source
It’s the go-to for most fish keepers – turn on the faucet, fill the tank, done. But here’s the catch: the same chlorine that keeps your tap water safe to drink can wipe out the beneficial bacteria your fish depend on.
In fact, the entire reason you cycle your aquarium is to introduce these good bacteria. If these beneficial bacteria die, then the water will soon turn toxic to your fish.
Water quality also isn’t the same everywhere. Hardness, pH, and trace contaminants vary by city, and older plumbing systems can leach metals like copper or lead into your supply.
If you’re unsure, a quick test kit or a chat with your local aquarium store can tell you what’s really in your tap.
Pro tip: Always dechlorinate before filling your tank. Fortunately, this is as simple as adding a water conditioner to your aquarium. A few drops of Seachem Prime can make tap water perfectly safe.
Not only does Prime dechlorinate your tap water, but it can also be used in an emergency to detoxify ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. If you have a freshwater aquarium, keep a bottle of this on hand at all times.
Pros & Cons of Tap Water for Aquariums
| Pros | Cons |
|---|---|
| Easy to access and inexpensive | Contains chlorine and chloramine that can harm fish |
| Works for most freshwater setups once treated | Water chemistry varies by region |
| Compatible with common conditioners | May contain trace metals from old plumbing |
Quick takeaway: Tap water is convenient and affordable, but only when properly treated. Test it, condition it, and you’re good to go.
2. Well Water
Natural, But Unpredictable
Well water sounds like the perfect natural choice, but it’s far from guaranteed to be safe for aquariums. Because it isn’t treated by your local municipality, what comes out of your well depends entirely on your geography and environment.
If you live in rural or agricultural areas, fertilizers and pesticides can seep into groundwater and raise nitrate or phosphate levels, both of which stress fish and fuel algae blooms.
Hardness and pH also vary dramatically between regions; in some areas, well water is soft and acidic, while in others it’s loaded with minerals.
The upside is that well water is chlorine-free, so you don’t have to worry about dechlorinating it. The downside? You’ll need to test it regularly to catch shifts in quality, especially after heavy rain or seasonal changes.
Pros & Cons of Well Water for Aquariums
| Pros | Cons |
|---|---|
| Free and readily available | Quality varies by location |
| No chlorine or chloramine to remove | Can contain fertilizers or contaminants |
| Often mineral-rich, good for some species | Requires frequent testing and monitoring |
Quick takeaway: Well water can work beautifully in an aquarium, but only if you test it frequently and know its chemistry. It’s natural, yes, but unpredictable.
3. Reverse Osmosis (RO) Water
Purified Water for Fish Tanks
Reverse osmosis, or RO water, is one of the cleanest options you can use in an aquarium.
The process forces water through a semipermeable membrane that removes up to 99% of contaminants, including chlorine, metals, and even bacteria. What’s left is nearly pure H₂O, ideal for fish that require stable, controlled conditions.
The catch is that RO water is so pure that it lacks the minerals your fish and plants need to stay healthy. Without calcium, magnesium, and other trace elements, fish struggle to regulate their internal balance, and plants can fail to thrive.
The fix is simple: In a freshwater tank, use a remineralizer like Seachem Equilibrium to restore the mineral balance. In a saltwater tank, your salt mix adds the essential salts and elements to the water.
RO systems are a bit of an investment and need periodic filter changes, but they provide consistent quality for both freshwater and saltwater aquariums.
Pros & Cons of Reverse Osmosis (RO) Water for Aquariums
| Pros | Cons |
|---|---|
| Removes up to 99% of contaminants | Strips out all beneficial minerals |
| Produces consistent, high-quality water | Requires remineralization before use |
| Excellent for sensitive or marine species | Setup and maintenance costs can add up |
Quick takeaway: RO water gives you total control over water quality but requires extra steps to restore minerals. It’s pure perfection, just not plug-and-play.
4. Deionized (DI) Water
The Clean Slate Option
Deionized water, or DI water, is another ultra-pure choice that’s especially popular among advanced aquarists. It works a little differently from reverse osmosis.
A deionization unit contains filters filled with a chemical resin. The science behind these chemical resins is both impressive and complex. To put it simply, the resin attracts and traps contaminants and exchanges them for the ingredients needed to create pure water.
The result is water that’s stripped of nearly everything that can alter aquarium chemistry. But…
While DI water removes dissolved minerals and many chemical impurities, it can’t filter out bacteria or fine sediment on its own. That’s why it’s often paired with reverse osmosis in a combined RO/DI system, producing some of the purest aquarium water possible.
Like RO water, DI water is too pure for direct use. It must be remineralized to provide the trace elements fish need to maintain healthy osmoregulation and stable pH levels.
Used correctly, it’s a precision tool for keeping delicate aquatic environments stable.
Pros & Cons of Deionized (DI) Water for Aquariums
| Pros | Cons |
|---|---|
| Extremely pure and contaminant-free | Lacks essential minerals for fish and plants |
| Removes chemical impurities like phosphates | Cannot remove bacteria or particulates |
| Ideal for fine-tuning water chemistry | Often used with RO systems for best results |
Quick takeaway: DI water offers unmatched purity but requires careful remineralization. Think of it as a blank canvas, great for experts who like total control, not beginners looking for convenience.
5. RO/DI Water
The Purest Choice for Perfectionists
RO/DI water combines the power of reverse osmosis and deionization, delivering the cleanest, most stable water you can produce at home.
The RO membrane removes the bulk of impurities, metals, chlorine, and organics, while the DI stage polishes what’s left, eliminating the final traces of dissolved solids. The result is water with virtually zero contaminants, perfect for aquarists who demand total control over their tank’s environment.
This level of purity makes RO/DI water the gold standard for reef and marine tanks, where even tiny chemical imbalances can harm coral or invertebrates. Freshwater hobbyists who keep delicate or breeding species also benefit from its consistency.
However, the same purity that makes RO/DI water ideal also means it must be remineralized before use. Without reintroducing essential elements, fish and plants can’t survive.
The filtration system itself also requires setup and periodic maintenance, so it’s best for committed aquarists rather than casual keepers.
Pros & Cons of RO/DI Water for Aquariums
| Pros | Cons |
|---|---|
| Produces the purest water possible | Removes all minerals, but must be remineralized |
| Eliminates nearly all contaminants | System setup and filter maintenance required |
| Ideal for reef and sensitive freshwater tanks | Higher initial cost than other methods |
Quick takeaway: RO/DI water offers unmatched purity and stability, making it the top choice for advanced hobbyists. It’s the cleanest option available, but only if you’re ready for the upkeep.
6. Distilled Water
Clean but Lacking Nutrients
Distilled water is created by boiling water into steam and condensing it back into liquid form, leaving most impurities behind.
The process effectively removes minerals, chlorine, and microorganisms, making distilled water exceptionally pure and safe from harmful contaminants.
Because it’s sold in most grocery stores, distilled water is an easy option when you need small amounts of clean water for a small aquarium or to top off evaporation losses. However, it’s not a practical solution for large tanks, because hauling gallons home can get expensive and exhausting.
Like RO and DI water, distilled water is too pure to use on its own. It lacks the essential minerals that fish and aquatic plants rely on for healthy biological function.
Before using it in an aquarium, you’ll need to remineralize it with a suitable supplement or mix it with conditioned tap water to restore balance.
Pros & Cons of Distilled Water for Aquariums
| Pros | Cons |
|---|---|
| Highly purified and free from contaminants | Lacks all beneficial minerals |
| Easy to find and inexpensive for small tanks | Impractical for larger aquariums |
| Reliable purity and consistency | Must be remineralized before use |
Quick takeaway: Distilled water is a safe, accessible choice for small tanks or emergency use, but it isn’t sustainable for large setups. Always add minerals before introducing it to your fish.
7. Bottled Water
Expensive and Unreliable
Bottled water might sound like a clean, convenient option for your fish tank, but what’s inside those bottles can vary widely.
There are three different types of bottled drinking water available:
- Purified water – Tap water that goes through an RO/DI system or is distilled.
- Filtered water – Tap water that goes through various filters, such as charcoal, to improve taste.
- Spring water – Water that is collected underground. It may or may not go through additional filtering.
Depending on the brand, bottled water may be purified, filtered, or spring water, each with very different characteristics. Some contain added minerals for taste, while others may still hold traces of chlorine or other chemicals not listed on the label.
Because bottled water is designed for human consumption, not aquariums, its consistency is unpredictable. You might buy one brand that works perfectly fine for your fish, only to discover that another has a very different pH or mineral balance.
That unpredictability can create stress for aquatic life, especially species that need stable water conditions.
The biggest downside is cost and practicality. Filling even a small aquarium with bottled water can quickly get expensive, and it’s not sustainable for long-term maintenance.
Pros & Cons of Bottled Water for Aquariums
| Pros | Cons |
|---|---|
| Readily available in stores | Expensive for medium or large tanks |
| Typically low in contaminants | Inconsistent composition between brands |
| Can serve as an emergency backup | May still contain chlorine or additives |
Quick takeaway: Bottled water can work in a pinch, but shouldn’t be your regular aquarium source. It’s unpredictable, costly, and not designed with fish in mind.
8. Rainwater
Free but Full of Surprises
At first glance, collecting rainwater for your aquarium may seem like a sustainable and eco-friendly idea. It’s free, chemical-free, and feels like the most natural option available.
But rainwater isn’t always as pure as it appears. As it falls through the atmosphere, it can absorb pollutants, dust, and airborne chemicals, especially if you live in or near an urban area.
The problems don’t stop there. If rainwater is collected from a roof or gutter, it can pick up dirt, bird droppings, roofing materials, or even traces of heavy metals. These contaminants can make it unsafe for aquarium use unless it’s properly filtered and tested.
Finally, mosquitoes may lay eggs in your water barrel. While mosquito larvae may make an excellent meal for your fish, your neighbors won’t appreciate them when they turn into adult mosquitoes.
Rainwater also has very low mineral content, which can cause unstable pH levels in your tank. Fish need certain trace elements to maintain their health, and without them, the water becomes too soft and can fluctuate dangerously.
Pros & Cons of Rainwater for Aquariums
| Pros | Cons |
|---|---|
| Free and sustainable | Easily contaminated by air or surface pollutants |
| Naturally soft and chlorine-free | Low mineral content and unstable pH |
| Can be used if filtered and tested | Not reliable in dry or polluted areas |
Quick takeaway: Rainwater can be used safely only after thorough filtration, testing, and remineralization. It’s a free option, but one that comes with serious risks if you skip precautions.
Can You Mix Water Types?
Mixing different types of water can be an effective way to balance your aquarium’s chemistry if done correctly. Many aquarists combine purified water, such as RO or distilled, with tap or well water to control hardness, stabilize pH, or reduce contaminants without removing beneficial minerals completely.
For example, if your tap water is very hard, blending it with RO water can soften it just enough for species that prefer gentler conditions.
Similarly, mixing small amounts of well water with purified water can add trace minerals naturally. The key is consistency. Always mix in the same ratios and test the results before adding it to your tank.
Avoid using bottled water in these mixes unless you’ve confirmed its contents. Because bottled water formulas vary, it can introduce unpredictable shifts in pH and mineral levels that stress fish.
| Pros | Cons |
|---|---|
| It lets you fine-tune hardness and pH levels | Requires testing and careful ratio tracking |
| Can balance out extremes in mineral content | Inconsistent results if ratios change |
| Useful for species needing specific conditions | Not all combinations are safe (avoid unknown bottled sources) |
Quick takeaway: Mixing water types gives you precise control over your tank’s chemistry but demands consistency and testing. It’s a smart strategy for experienced keepers, just don’t wing the ratios.
Saltwater vs. Freshwater: Which Water Type Works Best?
The right water type depends on the kind of aquarium you keep. Saltwater and freshwater setups have very different needs, and using the wrong base water can cause chemistry problems that are difficult to fix later.
Freshwater Aquariums
Treated tap water usually works fine. Most freshwater fish are adaptable and thrive in water that has been dechlorinated and balanced for hardness and pH. If your tap water is extremely hard or contains unwanted minerals, mixing it with RO water can help achieve a more stable environment.
Saltwater or Reef Tanks
Purified water, such as RO or RO/DI, is the gold standard. Corals, invertebrates, and marine fish are highly sensitive to trace contaminants found in untreated tap or well water. Using purified water ensures complete control over salinity and mineral balance once you add a marine salt mix.
In both cases, consistency is key. Sudden changes in pH, hardness, or salinity can stress fish and disrupt the delicate bacterial balance in your aquarium.
Quick takeaway: Tap water works for most freshwater tanks once treated, but saltwater systems demand purified RO or RO/DI water for long-term stability and coral health.
Water Conditioner vs. Dechlorinator – Are They the Same?
The terms water conditioner and dechlorinator are often used interchangeably, but they’re not exactly the same. Both are designed to make tap water safe for aquarium use, yet they serve slightly different purposes depending on what’s in your water supply.
- Dechlorinator: This has one job, to neutralize chlorine and chloramine, chemicals added to tap water to kill bacteria. Even tiny amounts of these disinfectants can damage fish gills and destroy beneficial bacteria in your filter. Dechlorinators make the water immediately safe for fish, but usually don’t address other potential issues.
- Water Conditioner: This is a more comprehensive product. In addition to removing chlorine and chloramine, it often binds heavy metals, detoxifies ammonia or nitrite, and may include ingredients that protect the fish’s slime coat. Conditioners are a good all-in-one option for most aquarium owners, especially beginners.
In short, every conditioner is a dechlorinator, but not every dechlorinator is a full conditioner. Choose the type that best fits your tank’s needs and local water quality.
Quick takeaway: A dechlorinator makes water safe to use, but a conditioner does even more to keep fish healthy. For most tanks, a full-spectrum conditioner is the smarter choice.
Remineralizing Purified or Distilled Water
Purified water types such as RO, DI, and distilled water are incredibly clean, but they’re missing something your fish can’t live without: minerals.
In natural environments, water contains dissolved elements like calcium, magnesium, and potassium that help fish regulate internal fluids, maintain healthy bones and scales, and stabilize the tank’s pH.
When these minerals are absent, water chemistry becomes unstable, and fish may experience stress or osmotic imbalance. To make purified water aquarium-safe, you need to remineralize it. This means adding back essential minerals in controlled amounts.
The easiest way is to use commercial products such as Seachem Equilibrium or Brightwell Remineraliz, which are designed for both freshwater and planted tanks. For saltwater systems, a quality marine salt mix automatically reintroduces the proper mineral balance.
Testing after remineralization is also important, as adding too much can spike hardness or alter pH, while too little won’t correct deficiencies.
It’s also crucial to always mix minerals into a separate container before adding the water to your aquarium to ensure even distribution.
Why Testing Your Water Source Matters
No matter which water source you use, testing it first is one of the most important steps in keeping your fish healthy. Water quality is the number one deciding factor in whether your fish live or die.
Even clean-looking water can contain invisible substances, like ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, or heavy metals, that can build up and cause serious problems in your aquarium. Testing ensures that what you’re adding is truly safe.
Every fish species has its own comfort zone for pH, hardness, and mineral balance. By knowing your water’s parameters, you can choose fish that will naturally thrive in it or make the necessary adjustments before adding them to your tank.
This step also helps you track changes over time, since tap or well water quality can shift seasonally or after heavy rainfall.
What Should I Test For?
Comprehensive aquarium test kits measure the most critical values, such as ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and pH. I recommend grabbing an API Master test kit. It contains almost everything you need to perform these tests.
What should you test for? Well, start with these four…
- Phosphate – 0.05 ppm or less
- Ammonia – Ideal level: 0
- Nitrite – Ideal level: 0
- Nitrate – 10 ppm or less
More advanced kits can also test for hardness (GH), alkalinity (KH), and phosphate levels. However, the ideal levels of these vary according to what you keep in your tank.
Don’t stress if you test your water and find that the levels are not ideal. Many products are available to improve the water quality. For example, you can use Purigen to remove ammonia or an alkalinity buffer to increase KH.
Quick takeaway: Testing isn’t optional, it’s insurance for your aquarium. A few minutes with a test kit can prevent major water quality issues and keep your fish thriving.
FAQs: Picking the Best Aquarium Water Source
Got questions about aquarium water? You’re not alone. Every fish owner wonders which water is truly best.
I’ve answered some of the most common questions below, but if you’re still unsure or have a unique setup, drop your question in the comments. We’ll help you figure out what works best for your tank.
What Water Should I Use for My Fish Tank?
For most freshwater tanks, treated tap water is perfectly fine once you’ve removed chlorine and chloramine. If your local water is extremely hard or contains contaminants, consider using reverse osmosis (RO) or a tap-and-RO mix to fine-tune the chemistry. It’s all about matching the water to your fish’s needs.
Is Bottled Water Good for My Aquarium?
Not usually. Bottled water varies by brand and may contain additives or minerals that are not suitable for aquarium life. It’s better saved for emergencies rather than regular use.
Can I Use Well Water in My Fish Tank?
Yes, but only if you test it frequently. Well water can be rich in minerals or contaminated with fertilizers, depending on where you live. Always check pH, hardness, and nitrate levels before using it.
Do I Really Need RO Water for My Fish Tank?
Not for most freshwater setups, but it’s ideal for sensitive species, breeding tanks, and all saltwater aquariums. RO or RO/DI water lets you start with a clean slate and build the perfect chemistry for your fish.
How Often Should I Test My Water?
At least once a week for new tanks, then every two to four weeks once your system is established. Testing after big water changes or adding new fish is also a good habit.
How Should I Prep Tap Water for my Tank?
If you’re like me and use tap water, remember that it contains chlorine. Therefore, you’ll want to use a water conditioner to make the water safe for your finned friends. It’s an easy and practical choice for many aquarium enthusiasts.
My Tap Water Is Hard. Can I Still Use It?
Yes, you can. Many fish species do well in hard water. If you’re keeping soft-water species, you can dilute your tap water with RO or distilled water to reduce hardness gradually.
What’s the Deal With Water Changes?
Regular water changes are like a breath of fresh air for your tank. How often? Well, I typically do about 10-20% every two weeks. It keeps things fresh and balanced. Remember, a happy tank is a clean tank!
Keep Your Tank Thriving: Your Next Easy Wins
Got your water source sorted? Perfect. Now let’s make your tank shine. Check out these easy hacks for a crystal-clear fish tank that start with the clean, balanced water you’re already using. See how an automatic fish feeder keeps your water cleaner by stopping overfeeding before it turns your tank cloudy.
Wondering why your fish tank might smell bad even after a water change? Spoiler: it’s often tied to the wrong water chemistry. And if you’re tired of waste building up, grab a gravel vacuum to pull gunk out before it messes with your fresh water.
Tell Us About Your Tank! Every fish keeper has a water story, whether it’s the tap water that worked wonders or the “pure” water that went terribly wrong. We’d love to hear yours! Drop a comment and share what water source you use, how it’s worked for your fish, and any lessons you’ve learned along the way.
I am Piyush from Maharashtra, India. keeping fish from 20 years, I am using Tap water with dechlorinate liquid from local pet shop it is very cheap only 1 drop is enough for 1 gallon water.
In our area there is no 24 hours water supply, we get only 1 hour water supply in two days.
So I am thinking on recycle aquarium water using Water Lettuce and water hyacinth, is it possible to recycle Aquarium Water at home ??
Hi Piyush,
Are you talking about for drinking? Or to remove nitrates from the water?
I have no experience on drinking and cannot comment.
As for creating a tank where water changes are not needed, it certainly is possible. The biggest issue is removing nitrates and remineralizing the water so that fish can effeciently osmoregulate. If this is what you are after, you could read up on the walstad method. It’s quite a balance but it certainly doable.
I just got a fish and there is bubbles on the rocks and I hope that is normal
Hi Kyleigh,
Read my bubbles guide for causes of bubbles. It’s likely the first solution, as a result of filling your tank. Did you cycle your tank before adding your fish? If not, read my fish-in cycle guide.
I mix 25 gallons of tap water with 5 gallons of reverse osmosis water and pump it into my tank.
Hi Ron,
That’s a great way to soften your water!
Recently (2x already) I started leaving my goldfish in the tank as I complete the water change. Is this harmful to them? I add Safe Start when I begin filling with new water. They’re still small and figured it is easier than trying to catch them, and making them scared and stressed out. What should I do?
Ho Monica,
You are not expected to remove your fish when you perform a water change removing them will stress them out much more than leaving them in. However, you would ideally add the dechlorinator to the replacement water rather than the tank itself.
Can irrigation water be used for freshwater tanks with proper conditioning?
Hi Janie,
Probably not. If we are talking about the run-off, It would have all sorts of chemicals from fertilizer and bug sprays.
First – this info is super helpful. Well written and organized – so thank you!
Now I have a follow up question. We are on a well in an area with really hard water that has a hair-turn-orange iron content. So we have a kinetico water softener (brine tank) and an RO system for drinking water. I am currently doing a fishless cycle using the softened water. Is softened water bad for fish? The tank readings right now are:
– pH 8.4 (it’s been creeping up from 8.0 over the last few days)
– Ammonia 0
– Nitrites 0
– Nitrates 20
– GH 4 drops
– KH 14 drops
I plan to do the first water change today in anticipation of getting a fish tomorow but am a bit worried about the pH/KH/GH trio.
Thanks!
Beth
Hi Beth,
It all depends on the type of water softener you have. Many replace calcium with sodium, which isn’t good for freshwater fish.
Ro water is fine, but it will need to be re-mineralized prior to being added to an aquarium. There are many aquarium products, like seachem’s equilibrium that will solve this problem.
Hi Ian,
I get my water for my tank at a local purified store and my tank within a 3 or 4 days has a horrible smell to it and I don’t understand why. I’m new at the fish tank deal and was wondering if you could help me. I had a friend to tell me to add about a half teaspoon of salt to the water but I was concerned about doing and if it would harm my fish. I would appreciate any advice you could give me on this because I love my fish and would hate to throw in the towel and give up because of the Oder.
Hi Linda,
Do you use an aquarium test kit to test your water? Do you gravel vac reguarly? Do you perform regular maintenance? Do you overfeed? There are many many different reasons why an aquarium can stink.
I explain the most common reasons here
Hey Ian.
I think I told you in another post that my tap water testing results before adding anything to it reads .50 ammonia, however if I recall that is really ammonium and harmless to fish correct? Since the master treat kit can’t differentiate between ammonia and ammonium then it should be fine…. I have some gallons of purified drinking water in my closet and it says it’s been processed by reverse osmosis – I just tested that and that also reads .50 ammonia so I guess I will go with the tap water.
One thing that scares me is my tap water has a very high ph of about an 8 while the drinking water is about 7.4….
Should I be using a ph regulator in my tap water before adding it to the tank to bring it down?
I also had a few more basic questions since we kind of started backwards lol- very complicated unheard of scenarios now I have some basics ..
Question 1
Assuming tanks are cycled and I test the water and get ammo .25 nitrites 0 and nitrates 5 should I automatically go a water change or instead of testing weekly should I just automatically do a water change weekly, bi weekly or monthly depending on the size is the tank.
Question 2
I use prime for my dechlorinator however I do understand that when using a BB like TSS you need to stay away for prime. I have 3 tanks that I am cycling with TSS so how long do I need to wait to use prime again? And what is your next go to conditioner? I have so many, api Tap water Conditioner, api safe start, api stress coat, Betta conditioner, And 2 tetra products.
Question 3
Since I just bought up tetra I bought two products that have me a bit confused. They literally seem to do the same thing however they are two totally different products and bottles.
I have Tetra aqua safe that says on the front CONDITION MONTHLY removes chlorine, protects and reduces stress. Then I have tetra aqua safe dechlorinator and conditioner. The only difference is this one says the words dechlorinator and conditioner and does not say reduces stress.
Have you seen these products? Is there even a difference?
Question 4
Last we spoke we talked about the money I spend weekly is way to much so with that being said I’m sure it’s no surprise I have SO many products and half of them
No clue what they do lol. I am going to list the main ones and could you please tell me if I have multiple things for the same purpose and if there are certain ones you like.
Here it goes lol
Api safe start, api stress coat plus, api tap water conditioner, api accu clear, api ammo lock, Betta conditioner, Betta fix, pimafix, melafix, aquarium salt, big box of activated carbon, big box of white diamond zeolite, alkaline buffer, ph regulator, fluval concentrated biological booster, seachem prime, stability, and something I can’t read because it’s in Chinese lol ; its a box of two big blocks and I just looked on amazon and it says 3D Nano culture bricks , culture Bactria ball processed by as cancer technology. Decomposition of harmful ammonia and nitrite in water. Contains trace Elements and rare earth Elements beneficial for fish. The box has two big squares lol and I have no idea if I should use this or how.
Question 5
In a fully cycled aquarium can I keep a mesh bag of white diamond zeolite or something like that to prevent ammonia?
Question 6
Are you sick of me yet lmao you just really think I am insane lol JUST KIDDING.
But I am about to do a water change and am i correct in assuming the only thing I need to add for now is water conditioner? That’s what I will do until hearing back from and you no rush by the way I asked you a million questions and I know your a super busy guy
Hi Again, Dominque!
It all depends on the fish you keep. A pH regulator will certainly do the job but it’s an ongoing expense and messing with pH levels can be a delicate process. Alternatively, rather than messing with adjusting pH, you could choose fish that prefer a higher pH water – there are many stunning fish that look stunning. If you google “high ph fish” you should find many examples.
For water changes, weekly is best. It gives you a chance to clean the tank and keep an eye on any problems that could arise across the week. 30-50% water change should be enough, but this will vary according to your test kit results.
If you wanted to be careful, a week after the last dose of prime should be more than enough time. I personally use prime on account that it is effective and goes the furthest, which saves me money in the long run. You’ll only need a few drops to dose smaller tanks. If you are using prime, I recommend using a dropper or disposable pipette, it can be difficult to measure out the small amount you need otherwise.
On the tetra products, I know aquasafe and aquasafe plus. Are these the products you are referring to? Aquasafe also has “beneficial bacteria” to supposedly maintain the aquarium filter, but in my opinion it isn’t necessary. Regardless, you want to add dechlorinator whenever you add tap water to their tank, not once a month.
Wow. You ended up with a LOT of products.
Api Quick Start – Water conditioner (prime)
Api Tap Water Conditioner – Water Conditioner (prime)
Api Stress Coat – Water conditioner + Slime Coat (may help stressed/sick fish, Independent study from university of Georgia suggests it won’t) (prime)
API Accuclear – Water Clarifier (not really needed if your filtration is set up properly)
API AmmoLock – Ammonia Detoxifier (prime)
Betta Conditioner – water conditioner (Prime)
Seachem Prime – water conditioner that does everything the above do.
Pimafix (medication for fungle infections)
Melafix (medication for physical wounds (fin damage, open wounds)
Bettafix (Medication. Same as Melafix except for concentration of active ingredient 0.1% vs 0.2%)
Aquarium Salt (medication, can be used for ich and other diseases)
Activated carbon (chemical filtration for smells and tannins released form driftwood) (not necessary in a regularly maintained tank – may be used in emergencies)
Zeolite (chemical filtration for ammonia) (Not necessary in a well maintained cycled tank – may be used in emergencies)
pH regulator – adjusts pH. How and to what level depends on regulator.
Alkaline Buffer – Adjusts KH, most ph buffers do this too.
Fluval biological booster – beneficial bacteria, not needed in cycled tank
Seachem stability – beneficial bacteria, not needed in cycled tank
Can’t really say what the other thigns are but they are probably not needed.
All you will need in a healthy tank is:
Water conditioner.
Medication (just in case)
and if you DO decide to adjust pH of your water each and every water change, then a pH adjuster.
You won’t need diamond zeolite or anything like that. An ammonia spike is actually useful since it can let you know something is wrong in your tank. Zeolite can hide this problem, pushing it down the road until the Zeolite needs replacing in which case the ammonia will spike again.
I think you are curious. That’s fine 🙂
In a healthy tank, the only thing you need to add is the water conditioner during a water change – once you are up and running, fish keeping is much cheaper than the petstores make it seem.
I filled my tank with spring water. Tested before and it was great. Cycled it and now the amonia is SKYBHIGH???????
Hi Di,
When you say you filled it with spring water, did you test it when you added it? The ammonia rising is part of the cycling process. If it has ammonia, then your cycle is proceeding, it has not been cycled yet.
I used tap water. Very convenient
Then I added API Stress Coat+ water conditioner and dechlorinator
It worked great and also reduced stress for fish
I always use that, the same way. My fish always live happy long lives. I have also been catching local bass and sunfish lately, and adding to existing tanks. They adapt well to water changes. Way better than pet store fish.
Also, I use API stress zyme+ for beneficial bacteria (needed) and API AccuClear as once I started noticing my water started getting cloudy too. Then I had an API ammo lock (just in case the ammonia spikes) and aquarium salt for all the medication and improving gill function and electrolytes and a tetra 7 in 1 test kit and a seachem ph and ammonia monitor and a API quick start for nitrite and nitrate and yes that’s it Do you think it’s okay?
Hi Tom,
Are you in the process of cycling? If so, cloudiness is normal and to be expected. It typically looks like a white haze and will go away on it’s own by the time the cycle is complete.
I’ve been thinking about getting a RO system. The average PH in my city water is 9.4 – and it ranges as high as 12 – not going to have much luck finding freshwater fish that can tolerate that high of PH. I continue to us PHdown (or PHup when I overshoot). It’s frustrating since I’ll get the PH to around 7.2 and it will continue to decline to 6.0 during the next week so I’ll find myself adjusting it mid-week, then it usually settles down. Of course, then it’s time to do another water change. Our water also contains 1.5 ppm ammonia – our city water manager said that’s not supposed to happen and is “looking into it” but basically every time I do a water change I risk increasing my ammonia rather than decreasing it. I add Prime every other day to make sure the ammonia stays converted to ammonium.
You discuss re-mineralization of the RO water before using it for an aquarium. How exactly would I know which additives to add to the water? Is RO water safe to drink without re-mineralizing it? I remember a Chemistry professor telling us that if we drank Distilled water all the time we would eventually die of dehydration since there is no way for you body to get the minerals you need to drink it and it will suck those minerals from your cells. RO water sounds like it presents the same problem.
Also how practical is it to use? I don’t want to have to run my water constantly due to the waste and try to find a huge barrel or tank to store the RO water in. I have 3- 29 gallon tanks and I change at least 16-18 gallons of water per tank each week. So I would need to have that on hand at all times to stay on my weekly water schedule change. Is RO water PH neutral (ie., about 7) or am I still going to find myself adjusting PH during the week.
Thanks for your help!
I really do want to stop using out tap water as it comes from the tap, but am concerned I would just be trading in one set of problems for another.
Hi Jan,
It sounds like you have already given this a great amount of thought and identified the problems of both approaches. You are indeed correct in that you are trading in one set of problems for another. On the drinking water front, I don’t have a whole lot of knowledge as to the long term effects of drinking RO. As far as remineralizing is concerned, there are a wide range of products that do this, such as seachem equilibrium. Whichever approach you take, you will need to balance the water before adding it to your tank. As for practicality, it all depends on your personal situation – which problems are easier for you to overcome?
Hi Ian!
Thank you for all of your helpful information on this blog. It’s been a wealth of knowledge for me to get back into the hobby. My 75 gallon tank is in week two of a fishless cycle. I used my tap water which fit the parameters of 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, and less than 10 nitrate. The pH runs a touch on the high side of 8.2.. sitting at 8.4 through this process. I finally got my first spike of nitrites (hallelujah! By the way, I followed your fishless cycle post). I am waiting on my RO/DI system to come in the mail this weekend. My local shop here set me up with some remineralizing SeaChem products that will help with plants when I start adding them. My question is this… what would be your recommendation of adding in my RO/DI water? Basically, how much of a water change should I do to incorporate this new water?
Ideally I’d like a MUCH softer water to have more delicate inhabitants.
Thanks again for all your help!
Kasey
Hi Kasey,
Tough question. It all depends on your current water. I assume you are buying a water softener because either your KH or GH is off the charts? To be honest, to start with, it’s very much going to involve trial and error. I’d start with 30% and monitor the change. If the KH, pH and GH drop lower than you like, you know you need less. putting it super simply, a 30% waterchange will roughly lower these amounts by 30%. If you need more, add more. It will take some messing before you get it right. But once you have the exact amount, you can use that amount for each future water change with a certain degree of confidence.
Thank you for your feedback. My KH and GH are astronomically high. I gave up after 22 drops with my API tester.
Would this water change be most appropriate after my cycle has completed?
If you are in the middle of cycling your tank, I’d see it through to the end before adjusting the hardness. I dislike making adjustments during the cycle. If something goes wrong, and it stalls, it’s another thing to you need to troubleshoot – I’m big on keeping the cycle simple.
Yes I have a 15 gallon fish tank , I usually only put gold fish in my tank, my problem is my water always change to a dark green Color in to or three weeks, I even changed all the water out of the tank, I use tap water for my tank, wanted to get my water checked at the water plant in the city, they said it would cost me $20.00 to have it checked, but Seriously going to get it checked, the water is clear when it come out of the tap, I only use cold water, this just happened to are tank last year, I even use two cap full of stress coat, in the tank, the fish store couldn’t give me a answer, would really appreciate if you could thank you Charles Smith.
Hi Charles,
There isn’t enough to go off here, although I will say that your tank is likely too small for multiple goldfish. You should be doing weekly water changes at a minimum how often do you change the water? What does your test kit say for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and ph? What is the water temp and how long do you leave the lights on for?
Hi 🙂
I recently purchased several 5 gallon water storage containers to store emergency water for my fish in case of an emergency ( unsafe water, no running tap water, etc). I do have a RO tap as well as a regular tap. We also have an aquarium service and they use both ( fix tap water with PRIME). But with all that’s going on in the world today, we’d like to have water stored for them. Which is better to store: RO or regular tap? We have (in separate tanks) large goldfish, guppies, barbs, and 1 saltwater tank with a pistol shrimp & other invertebrates clownfish. Thanks l much for your advice and may God bless you and keep you and your loved ones ( of course pets included) safe.
Hi Christina,
Crazy times indeed, I hope you and your loved ones are staying safe!
Regular tap water is better for the fresh water tank. If you use RO water, you’ll need to remineralize it. Freshwater fish need trace minerals which are stripped out during the RO process.
For the saltwater tank, RO water is the way to go since the saltmix is essentially “remineralizing” the water for you.
Thank you so much Ian! God bless you ????????????????????????????
Hello! I currently have two betta girls in separate 3 gal. tanks, both I used a bottled spring and purified mix, both half and half.
I would use tap, but my city is known for using fluoride in the water, which I don’t think conditioners will touch.
In one tank, the alkalinity is high. Can I cut that down with distilled water? I don’t know where to look around here for RO water…
Hi Cara,
This should teach you everything you need to know about KH (alkalinity) and lowering it:
https://fishlab.com/aquarium-kh/
Thank you so much! My fish and I are incredibly thankful <3
I would like to recommend that you keep your betas in ten gallon tanks. I also believe that the tanks should be heated. I’ve heard that this makes for much happier fish with brighter colors to prove it.
Hi. I have had aquariums before with less trouble than what I have now, & I am lost as to what to do. This article helps, but I am still not sure.
My uncle has a tank here – 5 or 10g, not sure. He said he never did anything except add a conditioner to the tap water & top it off. It recently got quite dirty, & I noticed Nitrate was 200ppm, so I cleaned & did a 50% water change last night. Nitrates haven’t dropped, so I’ll try to find something for that. But the point of bringing up the small tank is, he never did anything special to it, & the 1 tetra & 1 cory seem fine, & have been there quite a while.
But then, about a month ago, he got a 20g tank. He didn’t cycle it properly. After only 24 hours of running it, he got a bunch of fish, & most died by the next day. We were left with 4 tetras, 1 guppy, 2 cories, & a snail. Anyway, I am learning different things over time. At first, I only tested PH, & it was staying at 8.4ppm. I did many water changes, with the PH never changing. Then I was told to add a little aquarium salt, which killed everything except the guppy & 1 tetra. So I found out my water is too hard, which I didn’t know much about. I went to the pet supply store, & they gave me a liquid KH test. I didn’t know about GH. So KH was very high, so I got a water softener pillow. Then I got 5-in-1 test strips, & that’s when I found out about GH. So yeah, the pillow got the GH down, but obviously not the KH. And I have learned I have to get the KH down before i can get the PH down.
But I did a pretty big water change before adding the pillow, so now the Nitrite level in that tank is up.
So again, all I have used in both tanks is tap water with Tetra AquaSafe – was using Easy Balance before. And I am using the 5-in-1 test strips.
My current readings are –
Small tank –
Nitrate – 200ppm
Nitrite – 0ppm
GH – 150ppm
KH – 180ppm
PH – 8.4ppm
20g tank –
Nitrate – 0ppm
Nitrite – 3.0ppm
GH – 150ppm
KH – 300 ppm
PH – 8.4ppm
Tap water –
Nitrate – 0
Nitrite – 0
GH – 300ppm
KH – 300ppm
PH – 8.4ppm
(Filtered tap water is the same)
So, obviously, I need to do something more to get Nitrates & Nitrites down. But when it comes to the water – mainly the KH…I was told in another forum that I should leave it as is & not worry about it, but a friend told me that a high PH over time would kill the fish. In the small tank, like I said, those 2 have been in that same high KH & PH for many months, at least 8, maybe more. These 2 in the 20g have survived everything I’ve put them through for the 1 month they have been there. Again, tetras, guppies, cories. Is the other forum right – leave it alone – or my friend – PH is too high?
If I do need to lower KH/PH, I think I need to maybe mix another type of water – maybe spring or distiiled – with my tap water, & use that to make water changes? And if I do, would I do 50% or smaller?
Thanks
Btw, my uncle is impatiently wanting to add more fish…so I need to know what to do to be able to add more (the same type) fish. I also want to get more cories & snails a.s.a.p.
Hi Cassie,
It sounds like your nitrates are off the charts. If your uncle has never done a water change, then the nitrates will be so high that multiple water changes will bee needed to get them back down. E.g at 600 ppm, a 50% water change will drop them to 300 ppm, which is still off the charts, so it looks like they have not moved. Also, fish are very good at hiding their stress (since in the wild it would make them vulnerable to predators) just because they look fine, doesn’t mean they are. Some fish are much more tolerant of poor water quality than others.
My first advice is to get rid of the test strips and use an aquarium test kit. Test kits just aren’t accurate. It’s impossible to make a good decision with an inaccurate reason. My recommendation is to get the api freshwater master test kit + the gh/kh test kit, sold separately – it will save you money in the long run, these test kits can last for years.
Hard water tanks wills till cycle. So that’s not the issue here. With water like that, you should consider hardwater loving fish. It means you can skip the water softner and balancing, where errors often occur, and you save money by not buying ph/kh reducers. It’s best to choose fish for your water, not the other way round. A high ph will not kill hard water fish over time. Only fish and inverts that prefer soft water.
A high ph = a high kh. Read this for more info:
https://fishlab.com/aquarium-kh/
Next, this is how you cycle a tank without fish in it:
https://fishlab.com/how-to-cycle-aquarium/
Thanks for the reply.
I did water changes today to hopefully help some with the nitrates & nitrites, & will continue to do them.
I am going to get those test kits asap. I hope I can find them in a store.
And I agree it would be much simpler to get different fish. Reducing KH & PH seems complicated. But, this is my uncle’s tank – well, both are – & he wants the guppies & tetras, & that’s mostly what he has had before. I am the one taking care of all this because he works out of state & is gone a lot, but he wants those type fish.
I think the lime in our water is causing the hardness.
But thank you for the links, too. I will look at them in a minute.
Hi Cassie,
The API test kits are very common and should be on the shelf of most aquarium stores in the USA.
Your thinking is absolutely correct on the lime, it raises water hardness through the addition of calcium and magnesium.
If anything, you are lucky that you can keep cichlids – check them out, in my opinion they are considerably prettier to look at than guppies and tetras.
Given your uncle didn’t care for his previous tank, he likely has no idea as to what goes into maintaining good water quality. If you are the one doing the work, you should at least have some say on how much work you have to do.
Thanks for the tips, & again for the links. They are very helpful.
I will try to explain things to my uncle, but he might not understand.
But if it comes down to it, I might have to get distilled water (looking at the first link) & mix it with my tap water, & use that for water changes. Correct me if that’s the wrong way!
And I will have to go back over the 2nd link at least 1 more time.
Thanks again!
Hi Cassie,
Yes, that is one way of reducing hardness, but it’s requires lots of balancing, it can be a real pain in the butt that can stress your fish if not done perfectly. The easiest way is to buy KH adjusters.
All good on the cycling, I understand it’s a tricky concept. Leave me a comment on that page if you do have questions, so they can help other people reading.